Sophie Reigner, a self-taught chef from Brittany, woos us with delicate creations and exquisite plating: abalone cooked in seaweed butter, potatoes smoked in pine needles and a sherry-flavoured poultry reduction; monkfish with Guémené andouille, nori leeks and a light, frothy bergamot-flavoured hollandaise sauce… And let’s not forget Julien Noray’s decadent desserts. Attentive service.