This humble counter, located in a nondescript corner building in the Inner Richmond, is one of the city’s hardest-to-snag reservations, with a singular ramen-centered tasting menu that is hotly in-demand. Married couple Yoko and Clint Tan returned from living in Japan with a passion for ramen, which they translated into a homespun business after learning the craft. The results are a testament to their dedication, offering some of the most memorable ramen in the Bay Area. The particular bowl on offer at any given time is subject to the season and the creative impulses of the kitchen, unbound by strict tradition, as in a Szechuan-inflected version straddling the line between tantanmen and mazemen, enriched with peanuts and enlivened with spice.