This hot spot is surely an essential SOHO experience, set in an opulent emporium by noted interior design firm Roman and Williams. Especially at lunch, the room basks in its own beauty and in the beauty of the well-heeled patrons who huddle around tiny tables adorned with delicate blooms. The open kitchen, too, is a sight unto itself with sage-green tiles and gleaming cookware. It all feels very chic and very French, accented by a menu that delivers in careful indulgence. Chicken consommé with foie gras is a delicious study in contrasts, while cod steamed in a donabe with grain mustard, leeks, and potatoes offers both sophistication and richness. A wealth of classic desserts like profiteroles, tarte tatin, and crème brûlée taste of sweet nostalgia.