It might be smaller than the glass-fronted office buildings that surround it but this red-brick, Grade II listed former school certainly holds its own. The magnificent vaulted room lends itself effortlessly to its role as a glamorous brasserie and the atmosphere is buzzy without being overly loud. It’s a family affair, with Jeff Galvin in the kitchen and brother David responsible for sourcing produce at the market. Cooking is classic French with a light, modern touch, and there are no unnecessary fripperies – just reassuringly familiar combinations with the emphasis on bold, harmonious flavours.