Born into a family of chefs, the young owner started as an apprentice and worked his way up. Exacting about his noodles, he has them tailor-made to the texture he wants. All Hangzhou-style noodle dishes are made to order with traditional toppings and sauces. The pork kidney, from pigs slaughtered the same day, has a crisp, springy texture. The pork braised in a dense marinade with dried tangerine peel exudes citrus aromas. Expect to queue at peak times.