The 70+-year-old owner inherited the heirloom fish sauce recipe from her family. With chilli, garlic and fruit, the pungent seasoning is the heart and soul of her búm mam, cold rice vermicelli dressed in fish sauce and topped with meat, veggies and peanuts. The most popular topping is crispy roast pork; the thập cẩm version includes pork, beef sausage and cured raw pork balls. Fresh sugar cane juice makes a perfect companion to the noodle dish.