A former philosopher (and the epitome of courtesy and discernment when it comes to her wine recommendations) plus a globetrotting chef who grew up eating at Michelin-starred restaurants have taken over this family-run inn: just the ticket in the middle of this rural village. This pair promises diners a delightful dining experience that combines rustic surroundings and cuisine that nonchalantly switches between regional and more contemporary dishes, and is littered with nods to the chef's many travels: here you see vin jaune and saffron from Franche-Comté, peanut vinaigrette, seaweed emulsion alongside Thai-style mussels from Bouchot.