This small traditional restaurant in the town centre sports a bistro vibe, while rustic touches bear witness to the establishment’s age. The seasoned chef concocts tasty dishes with what his suppliers bring in fresh daily in a modern, hearty vein in which spices are often cast in the leading role: raviole of squab in Thai stock; lobster and cockles in curry-flavoured court-bouillon or line-caught pollock with an emulsion of Hanoi spices. Lunchtime menu at prices that make sense.