The pork cutlets, refined through a process of tinkering and improvement, are surprisingly light-coloured, thanks to coating in low-carb breadcrumbs and frying at low heat. The pork juices cling to the delicate batter, not going to waste. In addition to loin, tenderloin and belly, there’s even a mille-feuille cutlet. The chef’s approach is trial-and-error: time-consuming and with mistakes along the way, but the result is success. A unique tonkatsu born of theory, experience and instinct.