Longtime fans of the previous tenant (Paet Rio) will be thrilled to know that little has changed under this new name. The interior is still as cozy as ever, like a long train car with wall-to-wall wood paneling and redolent of incense. Service is welcoming and attentive; and the food, most importantly, remains notably appetizing, in an area rich with competing Thai kitchens.The dizzyingly long menu features curries, fried rice, salads, and stir-fries. But look closely and you’ll find real gems, like yum pla duk, or a delicate weave of crispy catfish topped with tangy mango salad. Miang kha-na is an essential starter, mixing lime rinds, pork, and peanuts to brilliant effect. Bright, fiery, sharp, and spicy—this is Thai food in its most captivating form.