Find this hidden dining room tucked inside the historic Hotel Normandie and helmed by Chef Gary Menes along with a passionate crew. The name, French for “counter,” is a literal description of the space, which seats no more than ten guests before the stainless-steel kitchen.Dining here is a personal experience, emphasized by the fact that the chef is cooking and plating everything right before your eyes. Dishes are handled with care, with the chef focused almost entirely on vegetables—protein plays a subsidiary role. Keeping that in mind, anticipate the likes of a savory carrot velouté or morsel of cured squash, both of which are as satisfying as the supplemental grass-fed beef. Much of the produce arrives fresh from the chef’s Long Beach garden.