The eye settles at once on the big sunken hearth and the pothook hanging from the ceiling. Char-grilled items take pride of place, leaving no doubt as to the shop’s selling point. The owner-chef honed his craft at a traditional restaurant in Gifu, and the influence shows in offerings such as Waragawa sweetfish in summer and mallard and bear in winter. Whatever the item, his aim is to present its true flavours. The cheerful owner-chef devotes himself to gracious service.