This edifice on the banks of the Yonne is truly superlative! Founded by Marie Lorain in 1945, the establishment rose to fame in the hands of her son, Michel, and then her modest, dedicated grandson, Jean-Michel. The latter has passed the baton to his nephew, Alexandre Bondoux. Regulars can rest assured that the establishment’s signature dishes remain (lobster stew; calf sweetbread in ginger), now flanked by culinary flashes of inspiration (free-range squab cooked in pink grapefruit; lightly smoked fillet of pollock in white wine sauce). A symphony of flavours, high-flying craftsmanship and spot-on seasoning in an exquisite gourmet repertory, underscored by slick attentive service.