Now in the capable hands of Julien Ayer, this stalwart of the Fribourg dining scene, whose stylish interior bears the hallmark of Mario Botta, is embarking on a new chapter of its history. Chef Victor Moriez (stints at Crissier and Rougemont) orchestrates a modern French score. Standouts include exquisite sauces, like his bitter orange, marigold and scallop sauce, and an amazing coffee-laced zander dish. Premium produce takes the limelight in creative recipes, including enticing vegetarian options on request. Slick service, inventive alcohol-free pairings and a high-flying wine cellar. Upstairs, Le Petit Pérolles is just the ticket for simpler, more casual dining, while in tune with the house ethos.