Chef Christophe Dufossé has been thriving in his homeland, as his cooking illustrates. This pretty château set in leafy grounds sports a contemporary conservatory extension. The chef champions organic, self-sufficient and sustainable surf and turf cooking centred on vegetables and produce from the region. Every dish is delicately and generously crafted – and flanked by big-boned, classically curated sauces. Standout dishes include his red mullet à l’unilateral (cooked on one side) with a punchy jus of fish bones, cucumber tagliatelle and an emulsion of fresh almonds or his stunningly unorthodox dessert which features green asparagus, an icy lemon balm foam, olive oil sponge biscuit, finely diced raw asparagus and kalamansi and a sorbet of lemon and lemon balm. Other highlights are the bread and sweets, particularly the lavish dessert trolley.