This is the Union of British chef Phil Howard (The Square then Elystan Street in London) and Martin Cuchet, a French mate, nuts about the mountains. From December to April, they craft simple, heart-warming dishes that reverently respect the seasons, such as “twice cooked” Beaufort soufflé, sautéed leeks and mushrooms, or upside-down tarte tatin with Chantilly cream. Heroically wondrous and uplifting.