The heart of the Minang farming region stretches out at the foot of Merapi volcano (2,891m). Its fertile slopes, shaped into terraced rice fields, are a honeycomb of canyons where waterfalls tumble down into the jungle. It is the realm of the Minangkabau, a Muslim ethnic group run by women according to matrilineal principles. Set out from the small village of Bukittinggi to explore this fascinating region, happy to welcome foreigners.